1st rd done of grafting complete.

buckvelvet

5 year old buck +
I just have to say thank you to everyone that sent me scion wood, such a blessing from ya'll are. I've never done anything like this but I could do that every day, I don't know if I did it right but it felt good. I think that came out wrong.....

I felt like I got in a pretty good rhythm so heres hoping for success and like CrazyEd I've made a spreadsheet to mark my success & failures. I grafted all my cummins rootstock that came in the mail yesterday, 9 B118 for wildlife and 6 M7 for my own orchard.

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Yes thats winnie the pooh on the left, don't judge me, I have kids.

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The room temp is 63 degrees and in the normal range for moisture as per the thermometer I put down there. My 10 antonovka rootstock should be here some time next week for the 2nd leg of the grafting race to commence.

I'd say half of the scion wood I got was big enough to do a saddle/w & T graft. I tried a couple on the some scion and ruined em. I just couldn't get it down so I cleft grafted all of them. I'm hoping to improve my technique as this road continues.
 
Heres the list so far.....thanks guys!
 

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Just so I don't confuse anyone, the 'mustard crab' is a crab apple that bordered my parents house (technically the neighbors tree)until we moved when I was 12. I stole a scion or 2 a few weeks ago. Shhhh don't tell anyone. P.S. their last name was mustard ...
 
Heres the list so far.....thanks guys!

Excel is great for keeping records. I just got a bunch of seed from the GRIN program, and I'll be putting in EVERYTHING. Collection location, collection date, species, date planted, location planted, general growth characteristics, growth rates etc...
 
Well done!

Here's some information i can share with you on the "resting period" after you are done grafting. So in my instance, i grafted all of my trees last year. I think I was done around the 1st or 2nd week of April. So this year I will likely be ahead of schedule since i'm starting this weekend and plan to be done by next weekend. The location i store my finished grafts in my basement is a steady 55 degrees, and dark. By May 3rd (see picture below), I already had a lot of growth, but all the new vegetation was very yellow in color, not nice and green. I mean it was green when it first emerged but i think the few weeks it spend in the dark didnt help. I think the yellow was likely due to lack of sunlight. Once I moved them outside into my garage, I put them in a north facing window, they greened up and I planted outside and I had a great success rate. That said, I might do things a little different this time - i'm not exactly sure how yet. It might just be as simple as hooking up a florescent light in the basement and running it 8 hours a day on a timer above the grafts. But this is just something to be aware of.


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Just so I don't confuse anyone, the 'mustard crab' is a crab apple that bordered my parents house (technically the neighbors tree)until we moved when I was 12. I stole a scion or 2 a few weeks ago. Shhhh don't tell anyone. P.S. their last name was mustard ...
So it was Colonel Mustard in the grafting shed with a Felco pruner!:eek:
 
I love mustard on crabs! I'm not sure how deer feel about mustard flavored apples, though...might want to rethink that. ;)

Very cool stuff Mr. Velvet!
 
Well done!

Here's some information i can share with you on the "resting period" after you are done grafting. So in my instance, i grafted all of my trees last year. I think I was done around the 1st or 2nd week of April. So this year I will likely be ahead of schedule since i'm starting this weekend and plan to be done by next weekend. The location i store my finished grafts in my basement is a steady 55 degrees, and dark. By May 3rd (see picture below), I already had a lot of growth, but all the new vegetation was very yellow in color, not nice and green. I mean it was green when it first emerged but i think the few weeks it spend in the dark didnt help. I think the yellow was likely due to lack of sunlight. Once I moved them outside into my garage, I put them in a north facing window, they greened up and I planted outside and I had a great success rate. That said, I might do things a little different this time - i'm not exactly sure how yet. It might just be as simple as hooking up a florescent light in the basement and running it 8 hours a day on a timer above the grafts. But this is just something to be aware of.

Ed or apparently its Matt.........

Anywho, what I am thinking is keeping them in doors until the 3rd week of April and them move them to the garage for 2 weeks then plant the 1st week of may. I'm not sure if this is an adverse or good effect but temps should be somewhat stable by then, and i just can't keep them in much longer than that, you know?
 
Excel is great for keeping records. I just got a bunch of seed from the GRIN program, and I'll be putting in EVERYTHING. Collection location, collection date, species, date planted, location planted, general growth characteristics, growth rates etc...
Rally, am I correct in assuming that you have every intention of sharing your seed experiments and data with the group per the GRIN germplasm use requirements.;) What all seeds did you receive? I would love to see your preliminary data once you have it compiled, and the end results as well.:cool: I still think that a switchgrass trial of 8 or 10 small test plots of different varieties would be a great long term experiment, and would likely give a guy enough information to decide on a couple of the best types to use on ones home farm.
 
Good job BV, but the important question is..........how many band aids are you wearing right now:eek:.
 
Rally, am I correct in assuming that you have every intention of sharing your seed experiments and data with the group per the GRIN germplasm use requirements.;) What all seeds did you receive? I would love to see your preliminary data once you have it compiled, and the end results as well.:cool: I still think that a switchgrass trial of 8 or 10 small test plots of different varieties would be a great long term experiment, and would likely give a guy enough information to decide on a couple of the best types to use on ones home farm.


I figure I can do some citizen science (I miss doing labs in college!), be able to get some cheap plant material, AND be able to help out pollinators and willife. Oh.... also it'll be fun! If they actually request it, I'll send it, but I'm more concerned about how different natives survive on my property. I'd rather take too many notes and not use them rather than too few and wish I had taken them. I'll just check them a few times a year (maybe twice in each season Spring,Fall, Winter, Summer etc..). I'm also interested in seeing if the "too many deer to plant anything" is actually a thing on my property. My area has a density that is too high, it's fun to hunt, but almost everything gets browsed. There isn't a browse line though, so it's not TOO bad. I'm surrounded by ag (2 corn or alfalfa fields within 500 yards of me, one is about 15 acres and the other is about 5), so I'm mainly worried about what these deer have in the winter after everything is harvested. I'm also interested how I should be protecting what I plant. Can I get away with fencing it until it gets established? Do I need to fence it at all? Do I need to keep it fenced forever and just use a small fence so that they can browse the tips and not the bulk of the plant? Are some species ok to leave unfenced while others I need to fence? There's just a lot I want to know. I can get all the recommendations on what works elsewhere, but it might not work on my place. I figure that if I can have fun doing this, creating habitat that helps out pollinators and birds and deer and rabbits and everything else, while the only "payment" I need to make is one that will actually educate me on the working of my small scale system, I've got one heck of a deal! I was also going to get some more wildflowers and do plugs here and there around the property, but I figured that I'd rather support some local native nurseries. They're very expensive, but those guys have been incredibly helpful with regards to propagation. By helpful I mean that I'll receive a response email within a day to answer my question... and I've yet to actually purchase from them. I'll just plant some of the expensive stuff in my mom's garden where we can take care of it better and collect the seeds from those. Lastly, most of the seeds I received were collected in Michigan, which I am SUPER excited about! I know it's kind of a hippy dippy romanticized dream world of academia in which we can use ONLY local genotypes, but I think it's at least worth trying to do on my land. Sorry for this clusterjumble of thoughts, but I'm excited about this stuff!


Here is what I wrote:

"This amateur study is aimed at investigating two things. The first, and primary, is the effect, preference, and amount of damage (if any) induced on these native Michigan species by the Whitetailed deer (Odocoileus virginianus) in comparison with that of the non-native invasive Autumn Olive (Elaeagnus umbellata). The second area of interest is the adaptability of the species selected in various habitat types within a 20 acre property in Montcalm County Michigan.

For the investigation of browse, species will be planted in and out of browse exclosures. Following propagation and a year of nursery growing to obtain adequate size for field planting, 2 or 4 specimens of each species will be planted in a single location. One or two of the specimens will have a browse exclosure made of concrete wire mesh placed around it. There will be multiple sites of the plantings in soil conditions ranging from dry sandy soils to wet muck. This portion of the study will work simultaneously with the aspect of adaptability.

Adaptability will be studied through the planting of the species in varying locations. Both survivability and plant growth (form, height, production) will be noted, and correlations between site conditions and form will be observed.

This study is aimed to be long-term, and with success, these species will be able to add floral and support faunal biodiversity with a specific interest in native pollinators. The study will be qualitative and, unless specifically requested, quantitative analysis will be limited to rough estimates of plant dimensions (height and width) and growth rates. These results will be reported publicly on one or two websites (habitat-talk.com & qdma.com), as well as shared with members of the Kalamazoo College Biology Department Faculty. The results will be geared to provide landowners a reference for the use of these native species in a multitude of situations, and specifically in areas where autumn olive is a prevalent species. Additionally, if requested, the qualitative results of this study can be used as comparative data within academia."

Sorry for mentioning "the dark side" by name!

Here is what I requested
PI 667230 - COR - Sambucus nigra subsp. canadensis
NA 64730 - NA - Cercis canadensis
NA 81223 - NA - Cornus florida
PI 662003 - NC7 - Aronia melanocarpa
PI 662004 - NC7 - Aronia x prunifolia
PI 468117 - NC7 - Cornus amomum
Ames 26997 - NC7 - Cornus racemosa
Ames 29415 - NC7 - Diervilla lonicera
PI 664867 - NC7 - Hypericum prolificum
Ames 28324 - NC7 - Physocarpus opulifolius
Ames 29429 - NC7 - Physocarpus opulifolius
PI 518502 - NC7 - Rhus glabra
Ames 29435 - NC7 - Rhus typhina
 
Good job BV, but the important question is..........how many band aids are you wearing right now:eek:.

Actually all survived without that particular type of error. However my jeans may not have as that treekote stuff, well it kotes well.
 
I figure I can do some citizen science (I miss doing labs in college!), be able to get some cheap plant material, AND be able to help out pollinators and willife. Oh.... also it'll be fun! If they actually request it, I'll send it, but I'm more concerned about how different natives survive on my property. I'd rather take too many notes and not use them rather than too few and wish I had taken them. I'll just check them a few times a year (maybe twice in each season Spring,Fall, Winter, Summer etc..). I'm also interested in seeing if the "too many deer to plant anything" is actually a thing on my property. My area has a density that is too high, it's fun to hunt, but almost everything gets browsed. There isn't a browse line though, so it's not TOO bad. I'm surrounded by ag (2 corn or alfalfa fields within 500 yards of me, one is about 15 acres and the other is about 5), so I'm mainly worried about what these deer have in the winter after everything is harvested. I'm also interested how I should be protecting what I plant. Can I get away with fencing it until it gets established? Do I need to fence it at all? Do I need to keep it fenced forever and just use a small fence so that they can browse the tips and not the bulk of the plant? Are some species ok to leave unfenced while others I need to fence? There's just a lot I want to know. I can get all the recommendations on what works elsewhere, but it might not work on my place. I figure that if I can have fun doing this, creating habitat that helps out pollinators and birds and deer and rabbits and everything else, while the only "payment" I need to make is one that will actually educate me on the working of my small scale system, I've got one heck of a deal! I was also going to get some more wildflowers and do plugs here and there around the property, but I figured that I'd rather support some local native nurseries. They're very expensive, but those guys have been incredibly helpful with regards to propagation. By helpful I mean that I'll receive a response email within a day to answer my question... and I've yet to actually purchase from them. I'll just plant some of the expensive stuff in my mom's garden where we can take care of it better and collect the seeds from those. Lastly, most of the seeds I received were collected in Michigan, which I am SUPER excited about! I know it's kind of a hippy dippy romanticized dream world of academia in which we can use ONLY local genotypes, but I think it's at least worth trying to do on my land. Sorry for this clusterjumble of thoughts, but I'm excited about this stuff!

:cool:, I think this might require a thread of it's own once you get going.;) It definitely looks like a fun project and maybe you will garner some good info from it as well! I do like what you wrote to the folks at GRIN! Good luck! When you get this going we will need pics and info, please!:)
 
If a guy can graft without cutting one's thumb...you're ahead of me. I inevitably get a good gash every year. :D on the treekote...I learned that the first year. Don't wear anything you don't mind having stained black for life. FYI...mineral spirits does a good job getting it off your skin...not so good on your clothes though.

Yeah when my wife sees those jeans, her reaction should get a few laughs...

That Opinel #6 that Stephen Hayes swears by on his youtube videos is a great knife.
 
:cool:, I think this might require a thread of it's own once you get going.;) It definitely looks like a fun project and maybe you will garner some good info from it as well! I do like what you wrote to the folks at GRIN! Good luck! When you get this going we will need pics and info, please!:)
Absolutely! I've started a few of the seeds that don't need any pretreatment, but none have sprouted. The majority I'm storing until the fall, and will do whatever I need to do then. They range from needing 1 month of just stratification to scarification plus 3 months of strat. Lots of them say they need the warm-cold stratification, but I'm just going to scarify those and then do just the cold stratification. For most of them, I received 100 seeds. The elderberry I received only 25, but I might also get a plug of those from one of the nurseries (one is on the way to my cottage, and the other is in Kalamazoo where I go and visit my girlfriend once a month or so).
 
Nice job BV. Can I ask what you have the roots stored in in the 5 gallon buckets? I just tried grafting apples for the first time this year and am not quite sure what I do with them between now and planting time. Is that peat moss?

Thanks.
 
Sorry if I hijacked your thread vb!:oops:
 
Nice job BV. Can I ask what you have the roots stored in in the 5 gallon buckets? I just tried grafting apples for the first time this year and am not quite sure what I do with them between now and planting time. Is that peat moss?

Thanks.

Sphagnum moss, i've been told saw dust is ok too, all by the great members here in our fruit secret society. :)
 
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