John-W-WI
Administrator
Here is an updated version of a Q&A I've posted online before. It isn't an all inclusive guide, but it should be a pretty good start:
1. Which part do you use to make your cutting? Do I use the more "woody" material or the more pliable growth from the previous year?
On species like Hybrids it doesn’t really matter. 1, 2, 3+ year old growth will grow from cuttings just fine. On things like dogwoods and ninebark “newer” wood is preferred. Never anything more than a couple years old is best.
2. Is there a "magic" to using shorter or longer cuttings? Is the number of buds important on the cutting? To many or to few cause an issue?
The absolute minimum is (2) buds. Typically that would make the cutting pretty short. These small cuttings (Typically referred to as 2 bud cuttings) are grown in a controlled environment, not wild out in the field. With species like willows they may only be 3 or 4 inches long. Not big enough to plant in the field and compete with mother nature. These smaller cuttings can be started in containers, and moved out into the field later if you wanted.
As for longer cuttings - the advantage is they are taller the day you plant them. If you planted a 6' cutting 18" deep, it is 4.5' tall the day you plant it. It will be much more prepared to compete with weeds and critters because it is so much taller. (be careful, the bucks will still rub them!). Really big cuttings (think rubbing posts) should be planted several feet deep. We have successfully planted 20+ foot cuttings and had them grow. The bucks WILL rub these, but that is usually why you plant them.
3. What time of year should I make these cuttings?
They need to be harvested during the dormant season, after leaf drop. And before bud swell in the spring. Best case scenario is to harvest them in the spring as soon as the frost leaves the ground but the plants haven’t woke up yet. Plant them the same day if you can.
4. How do I store the cuttings until time to "plant"?
If you can’t plant them the same day, put them in a sealed plastic bag in the coldest part of the fridge for several weeks easily. Keep an eye on them, if they start to wake up they need to go in the ground.
5. When do I "plant"? Any "tricks" to planting?
Typically I try to plant after the last frost, obviously that can’t be done if you are harvesting and planting the same day. The single most useful thing you can do for your cuttings is to plant them through a ground cover layer. Either black plastic or landscape fabric. That will keep the weeds down and the water on.
6. Where do I get this "rooting hormone" and how do I know I am getting the right stuff?
We sell rooting hormone, most big box garden stores do too. Everything we sell requires Hormodin #1 – it’s a weak version for easy to root plants. The Hormodin label tells you which one to use based on what you are planting. Link to Hormodin label HERE. We no longer recommend rooting hormone on hybrids (hybrid willow and hybrid poplar). It simply isn't necessary.
7. Do I do things any different for willow, boxelder, cottonwood as compared to oak, walnut or beech, what about conifers?
Hybrids (hybrid poplar and hybrid willow), all willow shrubs and trees, most dogwoods, arrow wood, ninebark and elderberry grow from cuttings. Oak, walnut, beech and conifers will NOT grow from hardwood cuttings.
8. Is the angle on the bottom of the cutting overly important? Do I want a 45 of something sharper?
I honestly put the angle on the bottom so people know which end goes in the ground. It isn’t necessary.
Hopefully that's a pretty good start, please let me know if you have any questions!
-John
1. Which part do you use to make your cutting? Do I use the more "woody" material or the more pliable growth from the previous year?
On species like Hybrids it doesn’t really matter. 1, 2, 3+ year old growth will grow from cuttings just fine. On things like dogwoods and ninebark “newer” wood is preferred. Never anything more than a couple years old is best.
2. Is there a "magic" to using shorter or longer cuttings? Is the number of buds important on the cutting? To many or to few cause an issue?
The absolute minimum is (2) buds. Typically that would make the cutting pretty short. These small cuttings (Typically referred to as 2 bud cuttings) are grown in a controlled environment, not wild out in the field. With species like willows they may only be 3 or 4 inches long. Not big enough to plant in the field and compete with mother nature. These smaller cuttings can be started in containers, and moved out into the field later if you wanted.
As for longer cuttings - the advantage is they are taller the day you plant them. If you planted a 6' cutting 18" deep, it is 4.5' tall the day you plant it. It will be much more prepared to compete with weeds and critters because it is so much taller. (be careful, the bucks will still rub them!). Really big cuttings (think rubbing posts) should be planted several feet deep. We have successfully planted 20+ foot cuttings and had them grow. The bucks WILL rub these, but that is usually why you plant them.
3. What time of year should I make these cuttings?
They need to be harvested during the dormant season, after leaf drop. And before bud swell in the spring. Best case scenario is to harvest them in the spring as soon as the frost leaves the ground but the plants haven’t woke up yet. Plant them the same day if you can.
4. How do I store the cuttings until time to "plant"?
If you can’t plant them the same day, put them in a sealed plastic bag in the coldest part of the fridge for several weeks easily. Keep an eye on them, if they start to wake up they need to go in the ground.
5. When do I "plant"? Any "tricks" to planting?
Typically I try to plant after the last frost, obviously that can’t be done if you are harvesting and planting the same day. The single most useful thing you can do for your cuttings is to plant them through a ground cover layer. Either black plastic or landscape fabric. That will keep the weeds down and the water on.
6. Where do I get this "rooting hormone" and how do I know I am getting the right stuff?
We sell rooting hormone, most big box garden stores do too. Everything we sell requires Hormodin #1 – it’s a weak version for easy to root plants. The Hormodin label tells you which one to use based on what you are planting. Link to Hormodin label HERE. We no longer recommend rooting hormone on hybrids (hybrid willow and hybrid poplar). It simply isn't necessary.
7. Do I do things any different for willow, boxelder, cottonwood as compared to oak, walnut or beech, what about conifers?
Hybrids (hybrid poplar and hybrid willow), all willow shrubs and trees, most dogwoods, arrow wood, ninebark and elderberry grow from cuttings. Oak, walnut, beech and conifers will NOT grow from hardwood cuttings.
8. Is the angle on the bottom of the cutting overly important? Do I want a 45 of something sharper?
I honestly put the angle on the bottom so people know which end goes in the ground. It isn’t necessary.
Hopefully that's a pretty good start, please let me know if you have any questions!
-John