606NT drill:What to look for

TreeDaddy

5 year old buck +
Saw one for sale on craig list 2016 land pride Add says 20 hrs

What features are important for food plots,etc?

Local dealers are not particularly knowledgable re:no till philosophy

bill
 
Pull type or 3 point. Not that thats important.

20 hours raises an eyebrow. Probably a typo, there is an acre meter on the front that comes on as the "engaged" drive wheel starts to spin. It goes off pretty quick after no movement is sensed. If it only has 20 acres on it, it's new and probably in great shape. Unless someone ran it down the road. After 20 hours the only thing needing attention would be to check the wheel bearing nuts. They may need to be snugged up.

Features to look for. A main seed box (joke). But really that's all I use. I used the native grass box once in 10 years and the small seed box twice.

A grease Zerk bank makes it really easy to grease the front coulters that start the opening of the trench. Small tubes run to each bearing.

Other than that check the chain and sprockets for wear, check the coulters and opening disks for cracks and chips.
Check the seed tubes for holes or cracks.

Make sure they have the blocks that hold the hydraulic cylinders up for transporting it down the road.

Hopefully others chime in. I've had zero issues with mine so it's hard to know will break first.
 
Check the seed cups and make sure these mostly hidden parts have not been eaten by mice. Make sure the seed setting gauges slide well and look for corrosion inside the boxes for someone who used it for drilling fertilizer. See if the wear is consistent with 20 acres of operation (the 606NT comes with an acre meter and acre meters can be switched out easily). Check that the springs are in good shape and equal movement of the A Arms up and down. Look to make sure nothing is sprung and the drill sits level front to back and side to side when lowered. If 3 point look at wear on connection points and Mo wallowing out of holes or twisted parts.


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Mine is a pull behind which I wanted as I did not want the weight of a 3 Pt model on my tractor on our hilly terrain. I also have a JD I-Match Quick Hitch on the back of my tractor which I did not want to have to remove every time I wanted to use the drill. I have no problems backing up pull behind implements and I can hook up to and drop my drill in minutes.

Agree that there was a typo on the hours as they are equipped with an acre meter. 20 acres isn't even broken in yet. This drill should look like new if it has been taken care of.

If you plan to plant Native Warm Season Grasses then the grass box might be useful. I ordered mine with just the large box and the small box and I do use both of them every year.
 
I don't have the native grass box. I do use the other 2 boxes extensively. There aren't many options to chose from, a few different coulter models, but most are about the same. They are built like a tank, at 20ac it's new. Craigslist ads with odd wording that seem to good to be true are often scams, but you probably know that.
 
Pull type or 3 point. Not that thats important.

20 hours raises an eyebrow. Probably a typo, there is an acre meter on the front that comes on as the "engaged" drive wheel starts to spin. It goes off pretty quick after no movement is sensed. If it only has 20 acres on it, it's new and probably in great shape. Unless someone ran it down the road. After 20 hours the only thing needing attention would be to check the wheel bearing nuts. They may need to be snugged up.

Features to look for. A main seed box (joke). But really that's all I use. I used the native grass box once in 10 years and the small seed box twice.

A grease Zerk bank makes it really easy to grease the front coulters that start the opening of the trench. Small tubes run to each bearing.

Other than that check the chain and sprockets for wear, check the coulters and opening disks for cracks and chips.
Check the seed tubes for holes or cracks.

Make sure they have the blocks that hold the hydraulic cylinders up for transporting it down the road.



Thank you,Bill


20 acres on meter,NOT hrs

thanks,
bill
 
seller asking 13,000$

states to have paid 16,000 for it

bill
 
seller asking 13,000$

states to have paid 16,000 for it

bill

Is it a 3 Pt or a pull behind? They are priced differently.

I got most all of the options on my 606NT (pull behind) when I bought it in 2016. I bought mine at the Deer & Turkey Expo in Madison, WI, so I got a "show special" pricing I was told...and the dealer also included free shipping to Michigan. My drill has:

The large and small seed boxes - no NWSG box.
5/8" Turbo Coulters
Lights
Acre Meter
3" X 13" Press wheels
Weight brackets to add up to 600# of suitcase weights (which I haven't yet found necessary to use)

It is the 606NT Pull behind model. Land Pride recommends a minimum of a 40 HP tractor for the pull behind and a 60 HP minimum for the 3 Pt606NT.

The total cost on my drill was right around $16,200. If the drill you are looking at is a pull behind model and is in as good of condition as mine is, 13K is probably a fair price.

Hope this helps.
 
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I paid more for a GP 606 pull type 10 years ago. It was new but still.....
 
I paid more for a GP 606 pull type 10 years ago. It was new but still.....

More than 13K or more than 16K, Bill? I am pretty confident that if I continue to take good care of my drill (and I will) like rinsing it out after every use, thorough cleaning at the end of the season, and never spending a night outside of the barn) my drill will hold its value for many, many years to come. I know I wouldn't sell mine for 13K right now...
 
More than 13K or more than 16K, Bill? I am pretty confident that if I continue to take good care of my drill (and I will) like rinsing it out after every use, thorough cleaning at the end of the season, and never spending a night outside of the barn) my drill will hold its value for many, many years to come. I know I wouldn't sell mine for 13K right now...

Just over $16 new. Land pride wasn't an option then so mine is green. Green paint costs more on all tractors and implements. :)

I hear you mine gets cleaned, greased and stored inside. I even hit the bare metal on the coulters with WD-40 when it's stored. Should last the rest of my life.
 
Just over $16 new. Land pride wasn't an option then so mine is green. Green paint costs more on all tractors and implements. :)

I hear you mine gets cleaned, greased and stored inside. I even hit the bare metal on the coulters with WD-40 when it's stored. Should last the rest of my life.

Ha Ha. I ordered mine and I know the L.P. and the G.P. are made in the same facility. I've got all green equipment too so I tried to get the L.P. dealer to have it painted green when they built it but he said he just couldn't go there. :emoji_sunglasses:
 
many thanks for advice

I plan to print this thread and carry it with me if i decide to drive the 3 hr distance and check it out

Re:WD-40...... I buy the stuff by the gallon and use on all implements after every use

bill
 
many thanks for advice

I plan to print this thread and carry it with me if i decide to drive the 3 hr distance and check it out

Re:WD-40...... I buy the stuff by the gallon and use on all implements after every use

bill

I don't know anything about no till drills, but the wd-40 comment catches my eye. Wd is known to dry out o-ring type seals and such. and it's really a 'water displacement' solvent not a lube so if your spraying up rubber or moving parts, should still use another product.

My favorite external use storage oil for equipment is used transmission fluid in a pump up weed sprayer. I'll spray used engine oil too but it needs to be warm or won't spray. All my implements sit outside, drain oil is way cheaper than another barn. My dump trailers and trucks get a annual oil bath too. Just don't park on anyone's pretty Concrete for a while
 
I just cover metal.
And while on the topic of oils. Brake fluid is the best darn penetrating oil for un sticking threads that I've found. Squirt some on and come back later. Just don't get it on any painted surface you like. :). Because it's also a great paint remover.
 
I just cover metal.
And while on the topic of oils. Brake fluid is the best darn penetrating oil for un sticking threads that I've found. Squirt some on and come back later. Just don't get it on any painted surface you like. :). Because it's also a great paint remover.
ditto on the metal part

bill
 
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